Step into horological history with this vintage Rolex Submariner Date "RED" Mark II, Ref. 1680, from 1970-71. Featuring the prized 'Meters First' brown dial, this watch is a collector's dream. The hour markers and hands have evenly aged beautifully, developing a light creamy patina, while the "FAT FONT" bezel insert showcases a subtle ghost finish. These details, combined with the watch’s rarity, make it a highly sought-after piece among vintage enthusiasts.
SPECIFICATIONS
Brand: Rolex
Model: Submariner Date 'Red'
Reference Number: 1680
Movement: Automatic
Gender: Men's
Condition: Good, wear consistent with use and age
Time Period: 1970-1971
Box: Yes
Papers: Yes
THE CALIBER
Caliber: 1575
Jewels: 25
THE CASE
Case Material: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 40 mm
Thickness: 14.4 mm
Waterproof: 600 ft./ 200 m./ 20 ATM
Bezel Material: Bi-directional rotatable bezel
Glass: "Top Hat" acrylic, cyclops bubble that magnifies the date at 3 o'clock
Dial: Tropical brown Mark II 'Meters First' Singer.
Dial Numerals: No numerals, patinated luminous round, rectangular, and triangular luminous indexes, minute divisions around the outer rim, and printed swiss-T<25 on the bottom
THE BRACELET / STRAP
Bracelet Material: Stainless Steel Swiss Folded - Fixed Links (Model Marked No. 9315 w/ End Links No. 380; produced from 1969 to 1978)
Buckle: Fold-over - Diver Clasp
Buckle Material: Stainless Steel
THE FUNCTIONS
Hours, minutes, center sweep seconds, cyclops lens date aperture at 3 o'clock, 48-hour power reserve
FURTHER READING
INTRODUCTION OF THE ROLEX SUBMARINER DATE "RED"
The vintage Rolex Submariner Date "RED" Mark II, Ref. 1680, is a celebrated timepiece produced from the late 1960s to 1979, some claim 1980-81. This model holds a special place in Rolex history as it was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, complete with the now-iconic Cyclops magnification lens over the date window. The "Red Submariner" variant, produced until around 1975, is especially prized by collectors for its distinctive red "SUBMARINER" text on the dial—a rare feature that enhances the watch's value and desirability. After 1975, Rolex transitioned to inscribing the "SUBMARINER" name in white, marking the end of the "Red Sub" era.
CASE & DIAL FEATURES
The Rolex 'Red' Submariner Date "Meters First" Mk II features a 40mm tonneau-shaped stainless steel case, celebrated for its robust construction and impressive water resistance of up to 200 meters (660 feet). This durability and reliability have historically made it a trusted tool for professional divers and military personnel alike.
A standout attribute of this model is its original "FAT FONT" bezel insert, characterized by thicker numerals that exude a bold aesthetic. Over time, these bezels often fade to a desirable "ghost" finish—an ethereal, lightened hue that enhances the watch's vintage allure. Due to routine servicing over the years, many of these original bezels were replaced with thinner font versions, rendering the authentic "FAT FONT" bezels increasingly rare and sought after by collectors.
This particular example boasts a subtle yet captivating chocolate-hued dial, commonly referred to as the "Brown Sub" or "Chocolate Sub." This rare and beautiful variation is believed to have resulted from a manufacturing anomaly where dials gradually changed color from black to brown, possibly over months or years after production. It significantly elevates the desirability of the watch among enthusiasts worldwide. It's important to note that this color change process occurred within the first few years after production and is not ongoing. Brown dials are typically found on "Meters First" Mk II and Mk III versions within the 2.2 to 2.3 million case number range. The ultra-rare nature of this variant is further accentuated by the fact that only a small fraction of these dials underwent this transformation, with many being lost or replaced during servicing over the decades.
Complementing the distinctive dial, the well preserved luminous hands and hour markers have developed an even, light creamy patina, adding warmth and character to the watch's overall appearance.
Rolex's experimentation with dial designs during this era led to the classification of Red Submariner dials into Marks I through VII. This Mk II dial, produced around 1970, is particularly prized for its "Meters First" depth rating, accompanied by open "6" numerals and the Thin Font Long "F" in the typography, along with the signature red over white 'SUBMARINER' inscription—all features that underscore its historical significance and collectibility.
MOVEMENT & MECHANISM
At the heart of this historic watch is the Rolex Caliber 1575, an automatic movement that is COSC-certified as a chronometer. The movement features an overcoil balance spring, Microstella regulating screws, and a hacking mechanism, ensuring precise and reliable timekeeping. Although some of the movements were stamped "1570" on the bridge, they are indeed Caliber 1575, reflecting the inclusion of the date function.
HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE & COLLECTABILITY
The Red Submariner's significance extends beyond its technical specifications. It was often worn by military personnel, including soldiers during the Vietnam War, adding a layer of rich historical context to these timepieces. The durability and precision of the Red Submariner made it an essential tool for professionals operating in extreme conditions.
The reference 1680 is also unique for its use of an acrylic crystal, the only Submariner with a date function to feature this type of crystal. This, along with the rarity of the red text on the dial, makes the Red Submariner one of the most coveted models among vintage Rolex collectors today. Due to the limited production and the practice of replacing damaged dials with white-text service dials during servicing, finding a Red Submariner in its original condition is increasingly rare.
THE SET
This particular Rolex Red Submariner Date is in good condition, accompanied by a Rolex period leather box and outer box, the original punched papers, and booklet. The case, dial, and movement are all signed, with the serial number 235**** confirming its production in 1970-71. Twain Time offers a 12-month warranty on this timepiece, ensuring your investment is well-protected.